Days 61-64 21.4 nm
Hah! Who needs to
run rivers to see bear? On the way out of Tenakee Inlet we paused to watch a
sow and her older cub chase salmon in the shallows and pools of Kadashan Bay, a
huge estuary totally filled with low, marshy ground and mudflats.
This pair
lumbered along the flats, occasionally putting on bursts of speed as one or
the other splashed through the shallow water to bite or swipe at a salmon.
Their fishing technique wasn’t always effective, but it was fun to watch.
Surprise! Pavlof
Harbor was empty when we arrived, so we had our pick of scenic spots to drop
the anchor. We headed for our favorite location, away from the reefs and rocks
but with a great view up the slot to the waterfall and fish ladder, backed by
tall timber and the mountain looming tall in the distance. In past years the
best bear watching has been at the base of the falls or the fish ladder, but
this year we saw grizzlies more often on the gravel beaches and trails around
the small harbor. It was interesting to see how how the bear timed their appearances after several more vessels arrived.
This grizzly ambled along the favored hiking path immediately after one
group of cruise-ship hikers had rounded the bend and before the next group had
arrived on shore via inflatable.
Several hours later the bear sauntered along the
grasses on the favored “dog-walking” and “stretch-your-legs” gravel beach, disappearing
over the berm into a stream outlet every now and then. I was content to stay afloat,
ignoring the chance to go hiking with a Pavlof brown bear.
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