Sunshine, Salmon and Still in Canada

77.5nm          Brundige Inlet

Wind and wave conditions and a steady barometer determine the timing for a transit of Dixon Entrance East, the stretch of water where we cross the international border into Alaska. While it is tempting to linger in northern British Columbia, exploring interesting coves and inlets, we don’t want to miss a good weather window to make this big, open-water crossing. Today’s easy, protected run along Dundas Island was so smooth that we were almost tempted to run farther and make the crossing. Almost tempted, but wind and waves kicked up a bit and after nine hours of running we were ready to head for a quiet anchorage.

The next morning VHF weather reported ocean swells in Dixon Entrance West at 2-3 meters… yes, that’s meters, not feet!  We chose to spend a second night in Brundige Inlet at the north end of Dundas, waiting for winds and water to calm down. Relaxing on anchor in a beautiful setting isn't hard, but we were anxious to enter Alaska, arrive in Ketchikan to clear U.S. Customs, and get on with the SE Alaska adventures.

The M/V Jericho crew brought in a near-20 pound salmon (trolling a black hoochie, if you're interested) and Ron grilled one big fillet with our not-so-secret sauce for a terrific dinner entree. 

The day was warm and sunny and we were content to hang out for an extra day or two  to wait for conditions to improve. I don’t care what the sun does tomorrow, but I am asking the weather gods to calm the wind and flatten the water. 

Crazy Ivans and Bottleneck Inlet Crab

Day 8     Bottleneck Inlet

43.6nm          

Dee had another “Crazy Ivan” moment while switching the autopilot from one route to a waypoint on another route, resulting in a wild course swing. That’s two in two days, we definitely don’t need a third. We reviewed the procedure and stepped through the process again… cautiously… Dee at the controls with the Capt. supervising… and worked out the issue. Aha! I get it now. In the future we’ll I’ll change routes with less potential for excitement. No more “Crazy Ivans” for Dee.   (If you have read or seen The Hunt for Red October you’ll understand the reference.)

The Dungeness crab in Bottleneck Inlet must have been hungry this month. It didn’t take long to catch the daily 6-crab limit of these big boys, even with minimal bait. Mmmmm, the first crab of the season seems especially tasty, so loaded with rich, sweet flavor that it doesn’t need any sauce or fancy accompaniments. Later on we’ll enjoy indulging in crab enchiladas, crab quesadillas, crabby eggs Benedict, crab bisque, crab salad, crab pizza, crab cakes, pasta with crab, crab dip etc. Whatever the preparation, fresh crab is worth the effort it takes to clean one… or two… or six. My favorite? all of the above, just so it's fresh-caught, just-cooked Dungeness crab. 

A Sneaky Eagle in Seaforth Channel

Salmon fishing at Idol Point was slow and a little uncomfortable as we rocked and rolled in choppy water. The first hour produced one hit that didn’t set the hook and one scrappy rock fish. Ron reeled in the smallish fish, planning to release it when whoosh! An eagle performed an extreme power dive, swooping down to the water right in front of Ron. Still moving, it grabbed the fish and flew away, speeding skyward with fish, fishing line, lure and 15-inch metal flasher still attached. The reel screamed as line flew out, stripping off rapidly despite having the drag set. Ron grabbed the knuckle-buster reel, ouch!, tightened the drag and jerked the pole, stopping the bird’s escape and jerking him out of the sky. Splashdown! The eagle released the fish and flew away but continued to circle overhead while Ron reeled the fish up to the dinghy again. Once released the fish sank and that opportunistic eagle lost interest and flew away. No more fish, no more eagle, no more drama. No problem. We do have quite a memorable fish story.

A Berry Island Bear

Day One brought a beautiful anchorage and our first bear sightings; not a bad way to begin the 2015 cruise. Last year it seemed to take forever to spot the first critter, so I consider this black bear an omen of good things to come. Now where is the first whale?

Not long after we anchored Ron cleaned his binoculars and scanned the far shore on Swanson Island to focus the lenses. Black bear on the beach! It slowly ambled along the water’s edge, nosing about to feed on some unseen tidbits exposed by the low tide, and seemed committed to spending some time in the same area. That was an invitation to launch the skiff and run over for a photo shoot. I packed a go-bag with binoculars, camera gear and some snacks, grabbed the coats and life jackets and joined Ron in the cockpit as he readied the skiff. Wait a minute, Black bear on the beach! close behind Rhapsody, so close we could hear the rocks tumble as this bear rolled them over to check for edibles. Grab the cameras and forget the skiff, this was a bonus photo op. Last year we spent weeks looking for our first bear, and here we were with two of them in our first anchorage of the 2015 trip.

                                                                

After the tide rose to covered the intertidal zone, the Berry Island bear wandered off uphill into the dense brush. He returned the next morning, this time spending an hour at high tide munching on the tall grasses around the cove. Ron used the skiff for a closer approach and more photographs. That was one fat, glossy-coated and well-fed bear!

We did finally load gear into the skiff and tour the southeast end of neighboring Swanson Island. We viewed crumbling old homesteads and beached boats, newer cabins still waiting for summer residents, fishing lodges and occasional wildlife, but no more bear. This corner of the island was quiet, even the eagles nest looked abandoned.

                                                 

Photo: eagle nest in tree               

Photo: Sailboat and barge house in disrepair

Photo: Harlequin ducks

Photo: Timid doe on rocky shore at low tide

Destination: Farewell Harbor

Day 1     85.3nm       

We eagerly departed Discovery Harbor at first light, along with some water taxis on their first run of the morning and a few crew boats. Discovery Passage weather was clear and breezy, but the winds picked up as soon as we made the turn at Chatham Point into Johnstone Strait. Typically 10 to 20 knots winds running into an opposing ebb current can make for a chunky run, but Rhapsody’s stabilizers helped to smooth out the ride.

Photo: Entering Chatham Channel

We missed slack water at Blackney Pass, so we detoured on a slightly longer, scenic route up Havannah Channel and Chatham Channel. The area is peppered with interesting sights; old homesteads, newish homes and docks, First Nation reserves, middens and ruins which hint at once-livelier times. Chatham is a narrow, shallow, boulder-strewn passage with range markers as navigation aids. Nobeltec navigation software has made these shoreside markers obsolete, but it’s fun to use them to doublecheck our course.

Next came a brief sidetrip along Clio Channel into Potts Lagoon to check out friend George’s crew camp vessel, Salmon Seeker.  

Photo: Salmon Seeker in Potts Lagoon

Photo: Potts Lagoon logging site

Loggers were busy sorting and stacking logs near the shore while George’s crews were uphill somewhere building or rebuilding logging roads. Signs posted along the shoreline warned of blasting activity, but no alarms sounded while we were there. Nonetheless, Potts Lagoon was a busy place on that day!

Continuing on along Clio Channel into rock-strewn Beware Passage, we finally arrived at Farewell Harbor on Berry Island, a favorite and familiar destination. It felt great to drop the anchor, still in bright sunshine and out of the wind, and realize the adventure has really begun.

'Farewell Harbor was named in in 1870, by the officers of H.M. surveying vessel Beaver, because it was the last place surveyed, and that in the Beaver they had “Fared well, and now it was good-bye, Farewell.” (John Walbran)'

Photo: Farewell Harbor Lodge, Berry Island, BC

Photo: Farewell Harbor Lodge, Berry Island, BC